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Tool Kit & Tire Kit
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I went with a small kit that has a decent assortment of what appear to
be be good quality tools. It's a Cruz kit and I picked it up at the bike
show. I stow it in the tail section along with my owners manual and
registration/insurance info. |
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I have a Stop-n-go kit. I still need to get a
tiny compressor. I keep this along with the standard tool kit and a tire
gauge under the seat. |
Music
| I'm currently using this $80 i-River
CD/MP3/WMA player with an FM Stereo/mono receiver. It fits in my tank bag
and has a nifty remote that clips just about anywhere. I can change
volume, songs, stations or anything else via the remote. I limit it to
just volume and track changes while I'm riding. It has a rechargeable
battery that lasts for a loooong time. I've used it for eight hours and it
was still going strong. Plus there is a plug in power pack for an addition
couple of hours for a total of about 14 hours play time! Plugged into
the i-River is a set of Radio Shack ear buds. These are made by Koss, and
sound fantastic, if properly inserted. The foam is a little large for my
ear so they don't stay in my ear very well. There is a mute button on the
cord, that from time to time gets pressed under my riding jacket and cuts
out. I have cured this by using an extension between the i-River and the
ear bud cord.
I can pack four CD's at 700 megs each with MP3 or WMA format songs good
for about 2.8 gigs worth of music total. Not to shabby considering the
price. Plus I can use regular audio CD's as well or listen to the FM
radio. Even using a small CD folder, (ten discs) I have enough music to
last weeks without repeating. |
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The accessory fused junction box
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This is a standard 12VDC/30A SPST
Automotive "Bosch" type relay. I bought mine at Radio Shack, part
number 275-226 |
For a proper installation of heated
grips, or just about any other accessory that is going to draw a fairly
significant amount of current, a relay is needed. I choose to to mount a
fuse panel that is powered from a switched relay providing good constant
power for all my accessories. I used the left front turn signal
(running light) as a switched source to power the relay.
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The fuse block. NAPA Part number BK 7825316
Simple Barrier strip. This one is from Radio Shack, part number 274-658 |
I used a fused six position distribution panel that is feed from a
relay. That supplies the power, but I also needed to a ground connection,
so I used a four position Barrier strip and used one side as a common so
all the the connections on the other side are grounded. This is connected
to a fairing support bolt on the right side near the battery. |
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The left arrow points to the fuse block. I
mounted it to an aluminum bracket made from some thin sheet. Behind the
arrow and the red/black wire is the the screw that I used to mount the
bracket to the panel. The block itself is tie-wrapped to the bracket. For
reference the two bolts in the upper left are the left mirror bolts. The
middle arrow is the ground strip which is tie-wrapped to the fairing
framework. I've attached pig tails for easy plug in.
The arrow on the right is the Heat Troller control module, which is
also tie-wrapped to the fairing frame.
Click the picture to enlarge. |
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This shows the relays, ground and fused power
from the battery to the relays The
Yellow
arrow points to the ground connection that feeds the ground strip on the
left side panel.
The
Green
arrow points to the Horn Relay.
The Blue arrow points to the
Accessory fuse block relay.
The Red Arrow points to the in-line
25 Amp fuse that feeds the relays.
Click the picture to enlarge. |
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This shows the whole dash and the wiring for
the accessory a panel. All the wires run up and behind the instruments.
All the wires are 12 gauge, with crimped connectors. All connection are
fairly weather proof through the utilization of several layers of
different diameters of heat shrink tubing. Stock cable management was used
where ever possible and additional tie-wraps and shielding was used where
needed. All the wiring is hidden behind the dash panels retaining a
completely stock appearance. Click the picture to enlarge. |
Heated Grips
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Now that I have power I can install the
heated grips. I choose the Dual Star brand because of the quality, price
and the fact they are just up the road from me. Many others use the same
set up with excellent results. I choose to use a "Heat-Troller"
adjustable thermostat to control the heat instead of the supplied DPDT
(Hi-Low) switch. I also have it hooked up to a fused accessory
connection that is controlled by a relay only supplying power when the
key is on. This way I can walk away from the bike without fear of
draining the battery. |
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| The installation is straight forward. I
removed the stock grips with a utility knife (I tried the compressed air
trick, but it didn't work), since I was replacing them anyway.
I placed the pads around the grips and twisted the throttle to find the
optimum position. I then peeled the release film from the tape and
applied the pads to the throttle tube and the bare bar on the other side.
I bought the BMW "Endurance" grips which are about 10MM shorter then
the stock Yamaha grips. It doesn't even seem apparent in the photo. It's
another "Got to be an FJR owner to know the difference" farkles.
You can see the wire coming from under the grip. It pivots with the
grip and is cushioned from chaffing by a nylon washer between the grip and
throttle housing. I tie-wrapped the wire to the throttle cable housing and
then to the stock wiring harness. It's well hidden. |
Click on picture to enlarge |
| Here is the wiring diagram that I used to
wire the Dual Star elements to the Heat-troller. I found this somewhere on
the Internet, so if this is your drawing, thank you! It works great!
Click on picture to enlarge. |
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| And here is where I mounted the control knob
for the Heat-troller. I decided on this instead of the
left turn signal housing because of the difficulty seeing the small
LED. The panel provides a better vantage to see the light for me. The
actual Heat-troller "box" is mounted under the dash and can be seen
in the photo above.
Click on picture to enlarge |
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Magnum Blaster horns
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Okay, the one thing that most bikes lack is
horn volume, and the FJR is no exception. Fortunately this is easily
remedied with the installation of the Magnum Blaster horns. at 138 DB,
these little units will wake the dead. I installed a high and a low
pitched horn to give the tone more range.
These are seriously loud, and will scare the
daylights out of unsuspecting people, Or blind, deaf cagers (AKA BDC's).
Think somewhere between '72 Buick and Locomotive.
For full installation instructions check out the
FJRTech.com site
Click on picture to enlarge.
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Fork Brace
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This is a farkle that really wasn't high on
my list, but since I was ordering the bar risers,
I went ahead and ordered these up as well. I opted for the ones made by
Motorcycle Larry
rather then the more expensive
Superbrace brand.
Both do the exact same thing, but for the price of the
Superbrace I got
both the bar risers and fork brace from
Motorcycle Larry.
Well almost. If you factor in the shipping which is free from Larry,
there's about a ten dollar difference. A great bargain if you ask me.
Installation in straight forward. and I like the look of the satin black
over the polished aluminum.
Click picture to enlarge.
****UPDATE****
There is a problem with fork braces on ABS equipped bikes. There is a
front brake distribution block that is slightly longer then non-abs bikes.
On full suspension compression the brace will contact the banjo bolt, and
a crush failure has been documented by a FJR list member. Mine has been
removed and sent back to Larry for reshaping.
****UPDATE****
Larry has updated the brace and it works perfectly now. About a week turn
around and he gave me a free ram mount for my inconvenience. You rock
Larry!
Click picture to enlarge. |
Bar Risers
| I used
Motorcycle
Larry's risers. They are well made, plus they come in two different
styles. The standard, and the 6 degree. The 6 degree tips the handle bar
ends back out a little. I opted for the 6 degree blocks. The kit comes
with a longer clutch hose holder. All the others just let the hose dangle.
The finish isn't the same as the triple and the bars, but whatever. It
still looks decent.
Click on the picture to enlarge |
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El Cheapo E-Bay Top Case.
| The brand name is Safebet. I guess if you
just glance at the name, it could be taken for something more elegant,
possibly European. It's not the best Luggage ever made, but for $70
shipped to my door, it was worth a look. If nothing else I could sell it
to a Vespa rider and recoup some of the money.
It's as you can see not very large. I guesstamate the size to
about 34 Liters comparing to known sized luggage with similar dimensions.
It will fit one full face X-Large Scorpion Helmet on it's side. It has a
lock and also is removable from the mounting plate. Hopefully it wont
remove itself at speed, but it seems to mount solid to the plate.
The mounting plate is some sort of ABS type plastic, and is thick and
sturdy with numerous holes for mounting to the bike rack. A metal tube
type rack is what this is really designed for, but I made it work with the
stock FJR rack. I had to machine two brackets, and buy some stainless
hardware. Though there is supplied hardware to mount the plate, it just
isn't suited to the FJR at all. I guess it could be made to work, but I
decided to make some brackets out of aluminum and use stainless fasteners.
It has a pillion backrest. I sat as pillion, and I wasn't really
impressed. But probably the only thing that will rest against this is a
bag and or tent. I'll update this farkle as I use the case and have an
idea if it will fit my needs. Like I said, it is a little small. Maybe
this will force me to not over pack, like I tend to do.
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