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 I completed these farkles.


Tool Kit & Tire Kit

I went with a small kit that has a decent assortment of what appear to be be good quality tools. It's a Cruz kit and I picked it up at the bike show. I stow it in the tail section along with my owners manual and registration/insurance info.
I have a Stop-n-go kit. I still need to get a tiny compressor. I keep this along with the standard tool kit and a tire gauge under the seat.



I'm currently using this $80 i-River CD/MP3/WMA player with an FM Stereo/mono receiver. It fits in my tank bag and has a nifty remote that clips just about anywhere. I can change volume, songs, stations or anything else via the remote. I limit it to just volume and track changes while I'm riding. It has a rechargeable battery that lasts for a loooong time. I've used it for eight hours and it was still going strong. Plus there is a plug in power pack for an addition couple of hours for a total of about 14 hours play time!

Plugged into the i-River is a set of Radio Shack ear buds. These are made by Koss, and sound fantastic, if properly inserted. The foam is a little large for my ear so they don't stay in my ear very well. There is a mute button on the cord, that from time to time gets pressed under my riding jacket and cuts out. I have cured this by using an extension between the i-River and the ear bud cord.

I can pack four CD's at 700 megs each with MP3 or WMA format songs good for about 2.8 gigs worth of music total. Not to shabby considering the price. Plus I can use regular audio CD's as well or listen to the FM radio. Even using a small CD folder, (ten discs) I have enough music to last weeks without repeating.



The accessory fused junction box

This is a standard 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive "Bosch" type relay. I bought mine at Radio Shack, part number 275-226


For a proper installation of heated grips, or just about any other accessory that is going to draw a fairly significant amount of current, a relay is needed. I choose to to mount a fuse panel that is powered from a switched relay providing good constant power for all my accessories.  I used the left front turn signal (running light) as a switched source to power the relay.



The fuse block. NAPA Part number BK 7825316

Simple Barrier strip. This one is from Radio Shack, part number 274-658



I used a fused six position distribution panel that is feed from a relay. That supplies the power, but I also needed to a ground connection, so I used a four position Barrier strip and used one side as a common so all the the connections on the other side are grounded. This is connected to a fairing support bolt on the right side near the battery.

I The left arrow points to the fuse block. I mounted it to an aluminum bracket made from some thin sheet. Behind the arrow and the red/black wire is the the screw that I used to mount the bracket to the panel. The block itself is tie-wrapped to the bracket. For reference the two bolts in the upper left are the left mirror bolts.

The middle arrow is the ground strip which is tie-wrapped to the fairing framework. I've attached pig tails for easy plug in.

The arrow on the right is the Heat Troller control module, which is also tie-wrapped to the fairing frame.

Click the picture to enlarge.

This shows the relays, ground and fused power from the battery to the relays

The Yellow arrow points to the ground connection that feeds the ground strip on the left side panel.

The Green arrow points to the Horn Relay.

The Blue arrow points to the Accessory fuse block relay.

The Red Arrow points to the in-line 25 Amp fuse that feeds the relays.

Click the picture to enlarge.

This shows the whole dash and the wiring for the accessory a panel. All the wires run up and behind the instruments. All the wires are 12 gauge, with crimped connectors. All connection are fairly weather proof through the utilization of several layers of different diameters of heat shrink tubing. Stock cable management was used where ever possible and additional tie-wraps and shielding was used where needed. All the wiring is hidden behind the dash panels retaining a completely stock appearance.

Click the picture to enlarge.



Heated Grips

Now that I have power I can install the heated grips. I choose the Dual Star brand because of the quality, price and the fact they are just up the road from me. Many others use the same set up with excellent results. I choose to use a "Heat-Troller" adjustable thermostat to control the heat instead of the supplied DPDT (Hi-Low) switch. I also have it hooked up to a fused accessory connection that is controlled by a relay only supplying power when the key is on. This way I can walk away from the bike without fear of draining the battery.
The installation is straight forward. I removed the stock grips with a utility knife (I tried the compressed air trick, but it didn't work), since I was replacing them anyway.

I placed the pads around the grips and twisted the throttle to find the optimum position.  I then peeled the release film from the tape and applied the pads to the throttle tube and the bare bar on the other side.

I bought the BMW "Endurance" grips which are about 10MM shorter then the stock Yamaha grips. It doesn't even seem apparent in the photo. It's another "Got to be an FJR owner to know the difference" farkles.

You can see the wire coming from under the grip. It pivots with the grip and is cushioned from chaffing by a nylon washer between the grip and throttle housing. I tie-wrapped the wire to the throttle cable housing and then to the stock wiring harness. It's well hidden.

Click on picture to enlarge

Here is the wiring diagram that I used to wire the Dual Star elements to the Heat-troller. I found this somewhere on the Internet, so if this is your drawing, thank you! It works great!

Click on picture to enlarge.

And here is where I mounted the control knob for the Heat-troller. I decided on this instead of the left turn signal housing because of the difficulty seeing the small LED. The panel provides a better vantage to see the light for me. The actual  Heat-troller "box" is mounted under the dash and can be seen in the photo above.

Click on picture to enlarge



Magnum Blaster horns

Okay, the one thing that most bikes lack is horn volume, and the FJR is no exception. Fortunately this is easily remedied with the installation of the Magnum Blaster horns. at 138 DB, these little units will wake the dead. I installed a high and a low pitched horn to give the tone more range.

These are seriously loud, and will scare the daylights out of unsuspecting people, Or blind, deaf cagers (AKA BDC's). Think somewhere between '72 Buick and Locomotive.

For full installation instructions check out the FJRTech.com site

Click on picture to enlarge.




Fork Brace

This is a farkle that really wasn't high on my list, but since I was ordering the bar risers, I went ahead and ordered these up as well. I opted for the ones made by Motorcycle Larry rather then the more expensive Superbrace brand. Both do the exact same thing, but for the price of the Superbrace I got both the bar risers and fork brace from Motorcycle Larry. Well almost. If you factor in the shipping which is free from Larry, there's about a ten dollar difference. A great bargain if you ask me.

Installation in straight forward. and I like the look of the satin black over the polished aluminum.

Click picture to enlarge.


There is a problem with fork braces on ABS equipped bikes. There is a front brake distribution block that is slightly longer then non-abs bikes. On full suspension compression the brace will contact the banjo bolt, and a crush failure has been documented by a FJR list member. Mine has been removed and sent back to Larry for reshaping.
Larry has updated the brace and it works perfectly now. About a week turn around and he gave me a free ram mount for my inconvenience. You rock Larry!

Click picture to enlarge.



Bar Risers

I used Motorcycle Larry's risers. They are well made, plus they come in two different styles. The standard, and the 6 degree. The 6 degree tips the handle bar ends back out a little. I opted for the 6 degree blocks. The kit comes with a longer clutch hose holder. All the others just let the hose dangle.

The finish isn't the same as the triple and the bars, but whatever. It still looks decent.

Click on the picture to enlarge



El Cheapo E-Bay Top Case.

The brand name is Safebet. I guess if you just glance at the name, it could be taken for something more elegant, possibly European. It's not the best Luggage ever made, but for $70 shipped to my door, it was worth a look. If nothing else I could sell it to a Vespa rider and recoup some of the money.

It's as you can see not very large. I guesstamate  the size to about 34 Liters comparing to known sized luggage with similar dimensions. It will fit one full face X-Large Scorpion Helmet on it's side. It has a lock and also is removable from the mounting plate. Hopefully it wont remove itself at speed, but it seems to mount solid to the plate.

The mounting plate is some sort of ABS type plastic, and is thick and sturdy with numerous holes for mounting to the bike rack. A metal tube type rack is what this is really designed for, but I made it work with the stock FJR rack. I had to machine two brackets, and buy some stainless hardware. Though there is supplied hardware to mount the plate, it just isn't suited to the FJR at all. I guess it could be made to work, but I decided to make some brackets out of aluminum and use stainless fasteners. It has a pillion backrest. I sat as pillion, and I wasn't really impressed. But probably the only thing that will rest against this is a bag and or tent. I'll update this farkle as I use the case and have an idea if it will fit my needs. Like I said, it is a little small. Maybe this will force me to not over pack, like I tend to do.

Stray Cat © 2009

Graphic Design by Max and Dixie

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